Awesome work Dave…is the clock very accurate? How do you fine tune it? By adjusting the Pendulum nut by degrees every week? Seems nerve-wracking. Its a great looking Clock though.
wow very pretty wooden clock,,,
be carefully,,,
few termites will love to eat it
Yeah, once its all assembled and you have it working, what kind and how much maintainance does it require? Winding? Adjustments? How often do you have to do that sort of thing.
It runs for 30 hours, so you have to wind it everyday (by pulling on the counterweight to raise the large weight).
To adjust the accuracy, the plumb bob needs to either be raised (if clock is running slow) or lowered (if clock is running fast). This is accomplished by turning the knob on the threaded rod on the bottom of the pendulum.
You should do it in time lapse … oh wait.
Very nice piece of work, but I matched it up with the time-code clock on youtube and it’s a little slow.. As you probably know
Not any more. It’s dead accurate twice a day.
Haha! Still very well done…trying to imagine the jigs to set up to make those gears
i’m so jealous! is there anything more satisfying than the dulcet tones of smooth working clock? “tick-tock” is nature’s applause.
KEvron
good craftsmanship! well made!
question? how about the thickness of the plywood, if it says 1/2 in does it need to be a 1/2 in or will the standard size for 1/2 in work (which is 3/8″ I believe)
nevermind about the thickness of the wood. However, could you help me out with the way the weight and the counter-weight string is tied and wound around the (R2).
The string can be attached to the drum (R2) by drilling two <1/16"holes in the surface of the drum, one towards the back and one towards the rear. The string can be divided into two lengths. Insert one end of each string in each hole and secure with a small brad. Wind one string around the drum for the weight. Temporarily tape the loose end to the drum. After assembly remove the tape and attach the loose end to the weight. The weight dropping will unwind its string & wind up the counterweight.
The gear thickness should be according to the plans. 1/2″=1/2″. I used baltic birch which is available here in Canada in SAE sizes. You might be able to use the closest metric equivalent.
cool man, I understand now. I couldn’t comprehend how it worked because I was thinking it was 1 string not 2. feel dumb cause it was that simple. Thanks and nice work.
Very nice indeed… It also has a great sound.
how exactly does the wight work. when it hit bottom then what?
Then the counterweight is pulled down which lifts the weight so that it can fall all over again. This has to happen once every day.
This is beautiful!
@carvesome canada ftw
hey nice work! I’m working on one now. In the book its says 5 pounds of lead shot on the materials list. Is that correct, it sounds too heavy
@dmolson4333
The text of the article states 3 lbs. That’s about what I used.
Hi, nicely done.
Are all these gears generated from template or were they from Gearotic Motion?
@TheDigit100
Scrollsawn from patterns.
Hi;
Watch a friend build a clock awhile back, amazing amount of work goes into them but really cool to see them work. He did have issues with his gears though. All he said was the smoother the roll….the better your clock will work. In the end he generated new gears from Gearotic using his original patterns for sizes, printed off new ones and cut those out using his scrollsaw too. Clock works awesome in his living room and quite an attraction just like your video. Good work.